Thursday, May 26, 2011

[CAPUL] A Taste of Batanes in Samar


Up north in Baranggay San Luis is an old lighthouse built in the 1900’s, rather short but quite popular with tourists. In my opinion, people really go there for the beach, not for the lighthouse. The lighthouse in question seems a bit vertically challenged, while the orange highlights are a bit awkward. I searched for it in vain earlier while our boat was approaching the island but I did not even catch a glimpse of its shadow. It turns out that its location is a bit remote, although just around 15 to 20 minutes on a habal-habal from the port. To go to the beach, you have to pass by the gated area of the lighthouse, down a beautiful green cliff with a stunning view, and then down a dirt path going to the beach itself where a natural pool deep enough for you to dive in awaits.


Batanes immediately came to mind when I saw the cliff. There's a solitary tree in the middle and on the edge is a wooden fence whose earthly color effectively complements the clear blue of the sky and the sea. Look right and you see an aerial view of the lower parts of the island. The waves rush to the shore before much of the space is invaded by a thick green cover of coconut trees. This is another obvious observation and this is the part where I tell you that Samar holds the distinction of being the country’s largest natural park. It's safe to say that in this island, the coconut trees outnumber people in that if they suddenly decided to do a Lord of the Rings on everyone and mistake the residents for Orcs (remember those freaky trees attacking Saruman’s fortress?), the struggle would probably be over in less than five minutes.


There was a group of adolescents having a picnic when we arrived. They served as our unofficial tour guides of the area because my tour guide and I just followed them wherever they went. By the way, another striking feature of this side of the island is the group of large rock formations by the shore that again, reminded me of Batanes. But this is not Batanes. This is Samar! I know. I just could not help but compare, sorry. In any case, both locations are breathtaking. The group went down the dirt path. We followed them. The group stripped down to their swimwear. We did not. We just watched as they pushed each other around into a forced dive to that natural pool by the beach.


That small body of water is not to be underestimated. The clarity of its waters easily shows how deep it actually is. The sea flows into it through a narrow passage marked by two low plateaus by the edge of the beach. It then flows inward into a mini cave where the picnic people gathered. Later on, we would hear their exaggerated screams as they all try to outmaneuver each other to get out of the pool. It is only after the path has been cleared did I see what the commotion was all about. A long and shiny white creature was wading through the water towards the cave wall. A snake was swimming among them. Fun! After five minutes they were back in the water like nothing happened.


It did rain but not so hard. The weather had been predominantly sunny while we were there. That is why when we looked towards the direction of the cliff I just could not help but sigh. What a beautiful sight. It actually looked like a movie set, what with the lone tree in the middle, the blue sky in the background, and a wide field of green grass at its fore. Add the wooden fence on the left side for some character and the view is just perfect. Shoot a video of two half naked individuals chasing each other while holding some product and it would be an instant commercial ready to air. No need for a cinematographer.


We stayed there for quite a while. I was tempted to strip and dive into that pool but I dreaded the thought of a wet habal-habal ride afterwards, along with another bout of pulmonary tract infection after a week or so. No, thanks. The people of Capul find enjoyment in such simple things like pushing each other into a deep pool or dancing to some novelty song on a beautiful hill. Watching them just enjoying life is already cathartic in itself. It made me realize that the beauty of Mother Nature is further enhanced when a bunch of Homo Sapiens taking pleasure in it is thrown into the picture. Cool.

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