I
think Tula is just fine and doable as a day trip from Mexico City. The trip
takes an hour and forty minutes on a really comfy Ovnibus departing from the
capital’s North Bus Terminal (Autobuses del Norte). Getting there depends on
where you are in DF. It took me another 50 minutes on the MRT coming all the
way from the south. Once you get to the terminal, head to platform number 7 and
look for the Ovnibus counter. Ask for the direct trip to Tula and pay MXN126
(~PHP325) one-way. Enjoy!
When
I said “direct to Tula”, I meant direct to downtown Tula, NOT to the ruins. Arriving
at the bus terminal, catch a taxi. Or walk, which is what I did. I asked one of
the security guards how to get there, and then he said that it’s just around 20
minutes walking distance. He then proceeded to give me the
directions which involved crossing a bridge and going left all the
way. All in all, the walk took me half an hour on a leisurely pace. There are
signs on the highway saying Zona Arqueológica. It was easy to follow.
Tula
flourished back in the 1000’s as the next capital after Teotihuacán, moving up
north to the modern-day state of Hidalgo. A search of the place on Google
images will reveal tall columns in humanoid form, with the head and face of a
Toltec chieftain and Nicki Minaj’s ass. The Toltec city used to be called
Tollan-Xicocotitlan, and the giant statues on top of the pyramid are said to be
portraits of their rulers. Around 4.6 meters in height, the giants of Tula serve
as the main attraction of these ancient ruins.
The
entrance fee is said to be MXN46 (~PHP120), but there is some confusion here.
The guy at the counter was asking for MXN65 (~PHP170), and if you look at the
price board on the wall behind him, it says that the MXN46 is the video fee,
while the MXN65 is for admission. I didn’t pay either amount because as usual,
my UNAM ID ushered me in for free. For those who don’t have credentials,
prepare your MXN65. The site also apologizes for the lack of sanitation in
their toilets due to lack of funds for more personnel.
The
place abounds with flora and fauna, and there is a very specific warning at the
entrance asking you to beware of snakes. Luckily, I didn’t see any while I was
there. What welcomes you after that is a huge garden full of different kinds of
cacti, as well as plants with orange flowers burning brightly as if they were
on fire. Since the leaves of those cacti are hard and durable, you will find lots
of graffiti carved on them. Hooray for being retarded, Earthlings.
What
follows the garden path is the lineup of stalls selling souvenir items. Again,
this is one of the sad parts of being a tourist attraction. The locals usually
get displaced from their ancestral lands and most of them end up just hawking
their artisan crafts, most of the time in very low prices, just to make ends
meet. If you have extra cash and would like to help, then by all means, buy
some of their stuff. I don’t buy stuff. Period. And so I once again played the
foreigner who doesn’t speak a word of Spanish to avoid them.
The
ruins are farther inland. Pyramid E immediately stands out from the rest thanks
to its high elevation and quartet of giants. Being the most important sacred
structure back then, only the high priests and royalty had access to it. But
this is 2016. Tell that to the camwhores who come to the place in droves for
that much coveted selfie, which is really tricky by the way. It was really
cloudy today, but the sun did make an appearance for around 15 minutes or so. That
explains the shortage of good photos, y’all.
The
giants look more stunning if you catch them all in one frame, but it will most
likely include a camwhore or two because they are everywhere. You have a better
shot at a single vertical close-up but the quality will depend on the angle,
as well as the sun. You can’t go that close to the statues but you can get near
enough to appreciate the fine details of the carvings, some depicting ancient
deities. Your trip will be more worthwhile if you go armed with background
information. Otherwise, they’re just giant rocks.
Once
you’re done with the close-ups, head to the other pyramid, or what’s left of
it, on the other side facing the mountain and the valley dotted with houses.
The place is a good vantage point for a panoramic view of the pyramid behind
you. In fact, this area is full of panoramic shots waiting to be taken! The
view from Pyramid E itself is quite attention-grabbing, like a desktop
wallpaper you can stare at for hours without getting bored. You can explore the
rest of Tula before going back to DF. They have a lively town square and an
imposing cathedral across the street.
[TULA DE ALLENDE] Toltec 1000's
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