Xochicalco
has always been on my list of places to visit since I moved here, after doing
some research of tourist attractions that can be reached by bus under four
hours. But my acute indolence has prohibited me from going anywhere this July. Lo
and behold, I woke up early today, found out that I didn’t have any shifts
lined up, went to Taxqueña and bought a ticket. The next thing I knew, I was on
a direct Pullman de Morelos bus, which only took two hours and a half to reach
the place. Pyramids!
Xochicalco
is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but does not enjoy the same popularity that
Teotihuacán does, for foreigners at least. This is a good thing because it
means less tourists. Isn’t it fun having several pyramids all to yourself? But
first we have to discuss how to get there. The direct buses from Taxqueña are
only available on Saturdays, I believe. There are two trips, one at 8:30 AM and
the other at 9:30 AM. Any other day, your best bet is to get a direct bus to
Cuernavaca Centro, and then transfer from there.
If
you are not based in Mexico DF, you can also get a bus at the airport headed directly
to Cuernavaca. The trip takes a little over an hour without traffic. Pullman
de Morelos is the main bus line and offers really comfy reclinable seats akin
to those of an airplane. If you are on a budget, you can hop on a Mibus for half
the price, which is not that bad considering the short distance. From
Cuernavaca, you can get a local bus going to Xochicalco for a meager MXN15.50
(~PHP40).
Cuernavaca
itself is a tourist attraction, and the original plan was to spend the
afternoon there. However, I opted to just chillax at the pyramids until around 3
PM, so I ended up a little pressed for time given how I had to be back at the
capital by midnight. It was all worth it. Teotihuacán boasts more pyramids, and
you can still claim one as your own despite the tourist infestation. On the contrary, Xochicalco
is way less crowded even on a weekend, and the layout is hilly a la Macchu
Picchu, though not as steep, as opposed to Teotihuacan's predominantly flat terrain.
The
admission fee is MXN65 (~PHP170) but I didn’t have to pay anything thanks to my
UNAM credential. And there I thought this ID is just for display in my wallet.
At least I was able to buy snacks with the what I saved. The ticket booth is
inside the museum, far back, which means you will have already seen most of the
archaeological display before you pay. The entrance to the ruins is on the
other side of the road, which is why I suggest that you see the museum first.
As
for food, I only saw two stores hawking the usual Sabritas (Lays) and Ruffles
combo, along with drinks that come in various flavors and sizes. It’d be
better for you to have lunch somewhere else before you go to the site, unless
you’re like me who can survive half a day with just junk food to fuel your
system. Otherwise, you’ll have to wait until you get back to Cuernavaca to get
something to eat. Arriving at 11 AM, I spent most of my time lying on a bench
on one of the higher levels, until a tour group came.
Loud
music was blaring from my headphones so I had no idea what was happening around
me, not to mention I was half asleep. And then someone tugged my arm and I was
suddenly surrounded by a dozen or so domestic tourists. You know how it feels like when you become part of the attraction? Okay, guys, this is one of the many
pyramids you’ll see here. You see the quality of these stones? Oh look, there’s
an Asian guy sleeping on the bench! And then they start throwing Pokéballs at you.
Tourists
come and go. Your best bet is to find one of the more secluded benches and
continue your hibernation there. I love how the sun was all up here in Morelos
today, yet there’s still enough shade for you not to die of skin cancer, and so it’s
perfect for a good mix of chillaxing and imbibing the ancient ambiance of the
place. I guess this is why Xochicalco ranks high in my Favorite Ruins list,
thanks to the good level of tranquility you can get here without trying so
hard.
The
main attraction should be the Pirámide Grande if only for its huge size, but
that distinction actually goes to the Pyramid of the Plumed Serpent. While way
smaller in size than the neighboring pyramids, the intricate carvings of
Quetzalcoatl and friends make this one the star of the show. Located
on one of the higher levels, it also provides you with a good vantage point to
see the landscape down below, complete with more pyramids and a lovely lake mirroring
the sky visible from afar.
[XOCHICALCO] More UNESCO World Heritage Pyramids
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