Just think of these two
churches as two sisters who are polar opposites of one another. Boyana is the
shy one, timid and quiet but her beauty shines through thanks to her
simplicity. Alexander Nevsky is the one with all the bling bling, glittering in
fine jewelry from head to toe. If sheer opulence was to be the sole criterion
for inclusion on that UNESCO World Heritage list, then this sister is a
shoo-in. But the UNESCO maintains its own standards. But why compare? These two
are both charming in their own right.
I visited Boyana first, which
was a good thing because I think I would’ve been severely underwhelmed had I
gone to Alexander Nevsky in the morning. But Nevsky was not the first stunning
vision for the afternoon. After resting for a while at my Airbnb place, I
decided to head to the city center instead of sleeping. Good decision! I took
the same tram and got off behind the Palace of Justice. Again, that black lion
duo is much more impressive under direct sunlight. I had a leisurely stroll and
I saw quite a few attractions.
First stop was this church, or
was it a synagogue? It’s down the road from the Palace of Justice and its façade
is characterized by mini arcs, topped by a dome also adorned by mini arcs. It
did not look opulent or breathtaking, but it had this air of simplicity that
makes you feel at peace. I wonder which religious denomination goes there to
worship. This area around Serdika is also a hotbed of buildings from Sofia’s
past, which means it also serves as selfie central. But wait, there’s more.
If you thought Serdika was
selfie central, then wait until you get to see the churches. My personal
favorite is that Russian Orthodox one with the four (or five?) golden domes. It’s
tulip season in Bulgaria and the juxtaposition of those bright yellow bulbs
just make the church jump out of the frame. It is probably one of my few favorite
photos of all time, which means something because I’ve taken thousands in the
last few years. Instagram eventually agreed based on the number of likes. I
knew it was going to be a hit.
Nevsky caught my attention as
I rounded one of the corners. I was suddenly staring at it as it jumped out of
nowhere. I thought it would be something visible from wherever you are in the
city, but this is no skyscraper. The combination of white, green, and gold is
simply hard to ignore, and the reflection of the sun’s rays bouncing off those
golden domes is plain hypnotizing. I had to sit on the curb for a good 10
minutes or so just to look at that marvelous exterior. The photos all look
postcard worthy.
Photography is not allowed
inside, but then again how do they really implement these rules? There were
security personnel in civilian attire and I did see a woman who was unlucky
enough to get caught snapping a photo of the ceiling. I mean, biatch, it pays
to be subtle? You don’t strut at the middle of the god-damn church, point your
DLSR at the humongous chandelier (no swinging Sia in sight) and then act
surprised when someone apprehends you despite the clear warning at the front
door. Tough luck.
That guy looked like he was
asking her to delete the pictures, because he demanded to see her camera and
they were discussing something. As for me, I took some simple shots while
feigning an exhausted pose on one of the benches. I mean they won’t really know
whether I’m just consulting Google maps, reading Alexander Nevsky Cathedral’s
Wikipedia page, or simply watching porn. Right? The interior is rather obscure,
though, although the opulence was all the more shimmering thanks to the dim
lighting.
There is a museum downstairs
which features religious art, basically murals and some sculptures. No
photography is allowed there either. The woman at the desk seemed all too
amused seeing JESUS in my surname. I paid BGN3 (~PHP80) for the admission to
that crypt museum. I can say that it did pique my interest, although I must
admit that I loitered there because I just wanted to kill time. I wonder if
getting an online degree in Divinity is worth it, just to make sense of what
the fuss is all about.
The excursion ended within the
vicinity of the cathedral. There are more architectural gems surrounding it, as
well as parks and more tulips in full bloom. Yellow? Purple? These flowers just
add so much artistic value to your souvenir photos! I used to think that spring
was overrated, but I’m slowly becoming a spring convert. There is another lion
with which you can snap a selfie. This one is way bigger than the two guarding
the Palace of Justice. Sofia loves her lions, doesn’t she?
The trip to the airport the
next day was eventless and I could have used the time in the morning to visit
Rila Monastery, if only I knew that there was only one direct bus leaving at
10:30 AM. That one is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Hey, there’s always
next time. I still managed to squeeze in some extra-curricular activities
before the flight. Nonetheless I deem this trip a success. I was able to see a
lot of good touristy stuff in spite of the time mismanagement. See you next
time, Sofia!
[SOFIA] A Tale of Two Churches: The Big One
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