The
aftermath of Spain losing the Spanish-American war meant the acquisition of
most of its remaining colonies by the United States which included the
Philippines, Guam, and Puerto Rico, with Cuba becoming a protectorate. More
than a century later, Cuba is now independent after being used as a pawn in the
Cold War. The Philippines is now being "run like hell by Filipinos rather than
heaven by the Americans." Congrats, Manuel Quezon, you got your wish. On the other hand, Guam
and Puerto Rico are still US territories.
I guess the shared history is just one of the many things we have in common with Puerto Rico. The very humid tropical climate is another point pf comparison, the only difference being the ocean of choice; them the Atlantic, us the Pacific. American influence also remains strong, with most of the fast food choices limited to the likes of Wendy’s, McDonalds, and KFC. The beach life is also popular here, which is just natural given its enviable position at the Caribbean.
But
being part of the US Commonwealth does not mean that all Boricuas are in
support of Uncle Sam, although independence referendum results tend to show a
huge divide among varying opinions. Puerto Ricans don’t appear to have a clear united
choice on what they want their island nation to be, which is why they can’t
seem to move on from the status quo. They are not independent. They are not a
US state either. In any case, politics is such a complicated issue, so let’s
move on to sightseeing, shall we?
You
can take the T5 to and from the airport IF your arrival time falls before 8 PM.
Since my Copa flight from Panama landed close to midnight, that meant I had to find
other options. Uber has just been launched in Puerto Rico, with staunch opposition
from taxi drivers from hell, as expected. Because of this, you CAN’T take an
Uber FROM the airport, because they don’t allow them to get in. That fucking
sucks. I had to take a cab which cost me USD20 for a less than 15-minute ride.
Fuck taxis, seriously. Fuck them.
The
Airbnb place I got was strategically located right across Walgreens, which is
open 24/7. McDonalds was two cartwheels away, while the beach was just within
two to three blocks. I didn’t come here to enjoy the beach, though. The main
goal was to see the old city, which will become redundant in a week or so
because these ex-Spanish colonies seem to have that in common, and
they also have the propensity to look really, really similar. But whatevs,
Viejo San Juan just shouldn’t be missed.
You
also take the T5 to get there, which will cost you no more than USD0.75 (~PHP35)
for a half an hour trip. It does not come around frequently, with intervals
limited to half an hour. And so I decided to have lunch at KFC first, before
hopping on the first T5 that came my way. Viejo San Juan right by the quay is
the very last stop, so you don’t really need to worry about getting lost. From
there, every site you want to visit will be within walking distance. Bring an
umbrella and lots of sunscreen, unless you want to burn.
Viejo
San Juan has the typical colonial architecture, but its location next to the
water adds a little something extra. Once you reach San Felipe del Morro
Castle, you’ll be treated to a consistent sea breeze strong enough to counter
the heat. On the hill is a huge field full of tourists and locals alike, some
having a picnic with their family, some flying kites. It was the highlight of
my trip not because it was my only destination, but rather thanks to the temporary
refuge from the heat. And yeah, the views were stunning too!
The
citadel is on the edge of the cliff, but its walls extend on the adjacent side,
enclosing a cemetery by the beach. The scene automatically gave me flashbacks
of Rabat. Dead and Still Sunbathing: Caribbean Edition! I think there’s a USD5
(~PHP240) fee to enter the citadel. Most people just laze around, though,
climbing the walls, lying on the grass, chasing their kids at the field. Of
course the place is camwhore heaven, so you can also max out your phone memory
by taking lots of photos.
The
walk back to the center is not devoid of awesome views either. If you choose to
walk by the beach, then you will see more sections of the wall. If you venture
inland, then the pastel colored colonial houses are waiting for you. You can
also chill at one of the many plazas, although I don’t really recommend this
because you’ll end up being toasted by the very angry sun. Restos and bars
are also littered around the area. Make sure you find one with air-con so you
can temporarily escape from all the heat and humidity.
[SAN JUAN] Viejo San Juan
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