Gulangyu
should have been the first stop of this tour, as most itineraries would
suggest. It seems like everyone would readily volunteer that island if you ask which
one place in Xiamen should not be missed. It almost fell victim to that it’s-near-anyway-so-I’ll-just-go-there-later
phenomenon, but at least I still got to go. I was getting out of the guest
house to head to the island when I met my new Filipino friend. We said we would
still go in the evening, because his German roommate said it would probably be
more enchanting sans the tourist infestation. As we stared at the night ferry
that evening, however, we all just agreed that it would be better left for the
next morning. And so they went the next day while I was exploring Hakka tulou.
I could have gone with them but I could no longer cancel the tour I booked
earlier. Oh well, alone time in a tourist island. Emo mood on!
It
takes just five minutes by ferry from Xiamen to Gulangyu. You pay RMB8 going to
the island, while the return trip is free. Well, not really. The token they give
you that resembles a casino token chip is swiped at the turnstile to let you
in. Hold on to that chip because you surrender it before your return trip by
inserting it in the turnstile at Gulangyu’s port. You can try to swipe it in
vain the whole afternoon but one of the friendly staff of the port will make
you understand one way or another that you have to insert it into the coin
slot. After that, you are free to go back to Xiamen.
You
can spend an additional RMB1 to access the roof deck, which is really a 50-50
thing. On one hand you get to see Gulangyu clearly and with the advantage of a
good vantage point for taking pictures and videos while approaching the island.
On the other hand, the trip is just five minutes long, but then you only pay
how much? Around PhP6.50 if converted? So yeah, up to you.
What
is clearly visible from Xiamen is Koxinga’s statue, which is made to look as
though he is watching over Xiamen, always on the lookout to ward off pirates
and invaders. Symbolic! However, it is not the first landmark that you would
see once you disembark from the ferry. If memory serves me right, it is a
kilometer away from where you dock. The thing about Gulangyu, though, is that
walking could always be done in a leisurely place. It IS a very touristy place,
and it is easy to get involuntarily stranded somewhere just to admire the
scenery. Having said that, walking one kilometer would not really be that long
a stroll. Trust me.
If
you legs bail on you, there will always be the golf cart taxis. You see, this
island is supposed to be purely pedestrian, but it seems there have been a
great number of lazy bodies and couch potatoes taking a shot on a more active
life that have decided to come to the island in droves. We could safely assume
that they are the target market. The cost is a bit steep, but you could choose
to pay them in monthly installments. Nah, kidding. It IS expensive. Period. If
you have the money, indulge. Otherwise, make good use of those legs.
I
suggest going to the island in the morning, so you would have enough leeway
just in case you end up having so much fun and forgetting the time. I came in at
late afternoon, and have thus far regretted that decision. I would have enjoyed
sitting by the beach all day. Instead, I was always strolling fast in a race
with the sun before nature’s very own lighting meant game over for my cheapo
phone camera.
The
island reminds me of Macau, maybe because they share the same Portuguese
heritage. It is said that this island was “invaded” by the Portuguese back
then, and they have surely left their Portugal Was Here graffiti all over the
place through the architecture. Food? Not that much. Although there are some
similarities with Macau, do not expect yourself overdosing on egg tarts any
time soon. Macau is more Portuguese than Gulangyu could ever wish to be, after
all. But why are we talking about Portugal again? Back to Gulangyu!
I
knew I would not be able to really explore the place thanks to my laziness, so
I just decided to prioritize some sights that I really wanted to see, first
among which was Koxinga. And so I took a leisurely stroll along the coast. The
weather is so cool that you would not really be drenched in sweat despite all the
walking and climbing. There are several attractions along the way that merit a
photograph. Snap one, with or without you in it. Some panoramic shots are
waiting to be posted on your Facebook cover photo spread! There are two giant
rocks where you could strike a pose while you annoy the hell out of your
companion by turning him or her into an instant paparazzo.
That
particular area is quite popular for couples. The day I was there, there were
two couples in full wedding attire taking as many photos as they could as
souvenirs once they decide to have a divorce. But let us not be too gloomy. The
background is just as awesome because you see a panoramic view of Xiamen’s
coast, starring its buildings and that flyover by the shore. There will always
be a good angle wherever you are, and you would probably be spending the whole
day exercising your forearm and your pointer finger. Koxinga is not too far
away from this area. If you have no intention of meeting him, then you could
always get lost in one of the streets leading to various corners of the island.
But in case you do want to meet the statue, then you have to go to Bright Moon
Park, which is where the statue is along with some other sites like a memorial
wall with horses and soldiers as well as that European inspired collection of
mini chateaus that you could rent overnight for around 500 renminbi.
After
Bright Moon Park, I explored the beach that serves as the entry point for one
giant rock island near the shore. It was already swarming with tourists so I
just snapped a photo from afar. Besides, this is my punishment for arriving
late. Stroll here, stroll there. I stopped by a café with tasty looking crepes
but they only had the menu in Mandarin. No, they did not speak English. The
last thing I wanted that day despite being famished was an octopus flavored crepe
that would have been the product of miscommunication thanks to the language
barrier. I resisted hunger and walker along. There was a path lined with books
made of aluminium or steel. And then there was another café that looked like a
Spanish villa. And then there was this memorial park next to the New World
souvenir pastry shops.
Pastry!
They have their own version of that pineapple pastry thingy that I love
munching on when I am in Taiwan!!! So yes, most of the shopping went to food,
which is the only way I am shopping if books are not involved. Along with some
nougat bars, I think I spent around 200 yuan for food, which is more expensive
than what I pad for three days of accommodation, but what the heck. I was
feasting on those pineapple thingies while brisk walking back to the port
because it was already getting dark.
Before
the brisk walking episode, though, I still had the chance to take a walk by the
beach where you can see Sunlight Rock staring at you up there. You could either
hike up or ride the cable car, which I would bet you my pastries would probably
be as costly, or even more expensive than the golf cart taxi thingy ride.
Because I already splurged on food, I opted not to go to Sunlight Rock anymore.
I mean, come on. What for? The awesome panoramic view waiting for me up there?
The divine breeze that would have been caressing my face had I decided to go
up? Okay, why am I suddenly feeling bitter? Whatever. This is part of the
punishment for coming late!
There
are many more places to see on the island. There is even a piano museum! But
you do not have to see them all. Just pick what interests you the most. If you
want to stay overnight, I saw a dozen boutique hotels or so, each looking
unique and quaint. If one day would not suffice for the island to charm you,
then staying overnight is probably a good idea. No, do not ask me about
internet connections. I would not really have an idea because I went back to
Xiamen that night to catch my flight back to Manila. Oh, and I saw SM on the
way to the airport! My Xiamen trip is complete!
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